Pas on belay loop. belay loop and strength rated gear and haul loops.

Pas on belay loop. Please review our forum rules before contributing. Safe Tech All-Around The All Around is a great multi-use harness that features four gear loops (xs has two), a rear haul loop, and reinforced tie in points. May 19, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I found this is much easier for adjusting the length, but without the cross-clipping danger of a daisy chain. Your belay loop is meant to be free to move for even wear and ideally should be used for metal gear like biners. It’s important to note that it can be difficult to release a device in guide mode once it has been weighted. Jun 29, 2013 · A personal anchor system or PAS is a system that anchors you to the belay and this article focusses on this. The Prusik is a handy knot to know how to tie and use in emergency situations and rescue operations. Then you have an extended rappel device with a knot that will come out pretty easily, an extended loop to clip into the anchor with that is separate from your rappel device, and no extra PAS on your harness. Bring the rope through the lower tie-in loop, behind the belay loop, and through the upper tie-in loop. Which PAS you choose has a lot to do with the type of climbing you’re doing and the situations you plan to use them in. Your question is about belay loop vs tie-in loop belay device position, but some folks want to tell you not to use either. If you have a horizontally oriented belay loop, make sure the rope is oriented so that the tail end is in your dominant hand. The belay carabiner, which would normally be clipped through your belay loop, is clipped only through the loop of rope (two loops if using double ropes) on the inside of the device and not the belay loop. Hook a locking carabiner through both the rope and the wire keeper, and attach it to the belay loop on your harness. May 15, 2024 · Whether you use a designated tether like a PAS or a Petzl Connect, or make one DIY with a double length sling, or you’re an aid climber and have a pair of daisy chains, you need to choose where to connect it to your harness - belay loop or tie in points? Apr 7, 2021 · The belay loop on a harness still has so many misunderstandings and misnomers about it in both climbing and rescue cultures. However, it can be worth carrying a PAS on a rear gear loop or in a pack if you’re going to have to make several rappels to get back down. Jun 27, 2025 · “The belay loop must have got a lot worse over the next few days,” says Hewett, adding that Skinner had belayed him on it with no problems (they spent four out of the next five days working the route). Just sit back and enjoy the definitive guide on how to belay. The belay escape is a technique whereby the belayer frees themselves from the responsibilities of belaying. Then, pull it through until the figure 8 knot is about 2 in (5. When I was up there and locked in, I pulled on the PAS to ensure security only to hear noises from my belay loop - almost like it was tearing. May 12, 2025 · Twin Tension Knot Pass Using a Figure 8 Loop – In lowering systems configured as twin tension rope systems, passing a knot becomes more manageable—particularly when the knot locations are intentionally staggered between the two lines. Feb 2, 2023 · Personal Anchor Systems, or PAS as they are more easily spelled, are a piece of sewn gear climbers use to connect themselves to anchors. You have rope bartacked into a loop that girth hitches to your harness. I thought back to the people I had taken on their first climb. For multi pitch we use the Slyde with a longer thin ropes, so you can ease move around on the relais/belay. This article explains how to big wall aid climb, including how to place gear, pass gear, pendulum, tension traverse, back-clean and lead overhangs. They can be necessary when cleaning gear off a route, before lowering or rappelling, or when backing up an existing anchor on a multi May 9, 2025 · The anchor attachment can again be clipped to the belay loop upon decent to achieve some redundancy. Munter Rappel: The HollowBlock carabiner gets clipped to your leg loop. However, they can be pricey and they’re heavier and not nearly as versatile as a sling. don't use the belay loop with a rope. Detailed Class on Climbing Harnesses & Simple method how to find the best Climbing Harness for you. Practice these skills. For pre-PA help, check out /r/prephysicianassistant. Ensure compatibility of belay system components with each other and that no component in the belay chain affects the operation and safety functions of another component. Feb 23, 2020 · Built as a chain of strong, durable, and reinforced loops which allow you to attach yourself in a number of ways to an anchor, a PAS is a great piece of kit. Tie a figure 8 follow-through knot to harness attachment point (s) with a minimum 6” tail. The cords are 47. The obvious answer i Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. These parts provide a place to attach a lanyard, a belay device and a rope. Aug 12, 2009 · Now I use a loop chain girth hitched to my belay loop with a locking 'biner on one of the anchor bolts (or a third bolt, if present). Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. This is a good length to make an autoblock hitch or prusik hitch to use as a backup brake while rappelling. Apr 19, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Belay Loop If you're placing an autoblock on your belay loop, you have to make sure and extend your belay device when rappeling (using a sling or something like the Metolius PAS). Nowadays, it is becoming standard practice to use a guide-type plaquette or a Grigri situated on the anchor and belay directly with that. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. Extension = biner + belay loop. For the rest of the day I girth hitched to the soft points of harness instead cause I was scared. Its vertical orientation allows the carabiner and belay plate to move for smooth belaying. The long sleeve jerseys are excellent for riding in the 10-15C range. 00:00 Intro 00:35 Correct Fit of a Harness 03:12 Belay Loop 03:53 Tie In Loops 04:36 Gear Loops At the moment my big wall rig is the Petzl Evolv Adjust tied into a Petzl Micro Swivel connected to a belay loop on my harness (I have two belay loops), using a much longer length of 8. They generally see the majority of walk-ins or urgent patients. Ben Podborski wrote: This seems like a lot of work to avoid an extension. It isn’t worth dying just to save money on new gear. The Prusik only has to supply braking force, and a leg loop, for example, is plenty strong enough for this. MembersOnline Aug 7, 2020 · PAs have better medical training, and are trained under the medical model. Oct 16, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Extended Rappel w/ ATC: Clip the HollowBlock to your belay loop with a small, locking carabiner. Take a loop (bight) of rope from the end which the climber is not tied into and pass it through one of the two slots in the ATC (both slots are identical). As you noted, the requirements for acceptance are higher. Instead of a doubled sling you can use a quickdraw, which may be a bit neater. Jul 1, 2019 · The Dynamic PAS is bulkier than the static versions, but on the harness, the difference felt minor. You can do a direct belay with a self-braking belay device but not an aperture belay device. Simple, adjustable and clean. Clip both the wire cable on the ATC and the bight of rope into the locking carabiner, and So I was cleaning a route and I usually girth hitch my PAS to my belay loop. For French, the emphasizing word is necessary. Why, if it's done with appropriate supervision? Apr 6, 2011 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 7, 2025 · Attach the rope and belay device to your harness. The sling extends the belay device above the back-up knot. They have better backgrounds in basic science. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Join BE for an epic 12 days on the national scenic backcountry byway - the Alpine Loop! Explore the Colorado towns of Lake City & Silverton as we hike & bike fourteeners, explore ghost towns, sleep in the American Basin, ride over Cinnamons Pass & Engineer Pass, & soak up the sights of Colorado's fall colors! Mountain bikes & bikepacking gear available for rent! Payment plans available! Mar 8, 2023 · To me, the only time a PAS makes sense is for rapping, particularly multi-pitch rappels. Jan 21, 2022 · Je ne vois pas, je n’entends pas, je ne sais pas. Jul 16, 2024 · Tandem Prusik Belay system for efficient knot passing in rope rescue operations. Self-belay loop: Use a 2- to 3-foot length of 5 - 8mm Perlon cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman's knot. I still prefer assos for the chamois but the PNS bibs are good for sure. Sep 10, 2022 · Welcome to our virtual space for all things related to PAs! Participation is open to anyone, including PAs, Physicians, NPs, nurses, students, other medical professionals, and the general public. Oct 19, 2015 · Petzl Connect Adjust: The first step is to, of course, make sure everything is properly attached to your harness and to have your locking carabiner in its appropriate place. Having a backup during rappel increases rappel safety considerably. Use of appropriate belay communication. P. Proper attachment of locking carabiner to belay device and appropriate belay loop. and metal work can go through the belay loop. The most common alternatives to a PAS are: Using slings Using a Purcell Prussik Using the rope Below we discuss these popular alternatives and link to some great how-to videos. The main reason to tie in through the hardpoints and not the belay loops is because nylon-on-nylon generates a lot of abrasion and heat and melting, otherwise the belay loop would be preferred as it is stronger. All these anchor systems rely on the belay being built with an equaliser and power loop. During the climb, this 6 mil cord can be used as a mini-cordalette for building anchors, slinging horns, etc. S. The down side to the method is needing to use nylon and also the bulky overhand knot that stays in the carabineer. It's 1000x better than the PAS system because you adjust it without adding a biner into the system or coming out of the anchor. This is important because if the Prusik loop gets drawn into the belay device it can get jammed, making it impossible to move up or down the rope, or it can actually prevent the Prusik from jamming and so rendering the back-up useless. May 23, 2016 · In this regard the Metolius PAS starts to show some advantage. However, I attach my ATC to the first loop of my PAS and then clip my prusik to my belay loop. Wrap 2-3 times around both strands of rope (enough for it to grab), and clip other end to the same carabiner for the WAC Way. Nov 6, 2023 · Welcome to our virtual space for all things related to PAs! Participation is open to anyone, including PAs, Physicians, NPs, nurses, students, other medical professionals, and the general public. Aug 3, 2023 · Another outdoor use for the belay loop can be seen when rappelling. However, the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust solves this issue quickly, though picks up some more weight & bulk in the process. 5 inches and 28 inches in length. Mar 15, 2016 · The vertical belay loop also results in a belay device orientation that is centered on the belayer’s body, negating the relevance of their specifically dominant hand. To belay another climber, connect a belay device with a locking carabiner to the belay loop (illustration #6). Jun 5, 2024 · The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. This allows you to free up the climbing rope and use it to continue climbing upwards, like on multi-pitch routes, or to transition downwards on sport climbs. May 6, 2019 · Belay loop is fine, just remove it after your climb so it doesn't wear in the same spot. Sep 18, 2023 · If you have to untie because of the anchor set-up, then pull up slack, tie a knot on a bite and clip it to your belay loop using a locking carabiner before untying the original knot. 5 mm rope. The Infinity is for the client that just keeps going and going and…Standard: Blue belay loopX-Large: Black belay loop Dec 8, 2021 · No, because the belay device is already extended from the belay loop. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. Lean back slightly into the loop to create enough slack in your belay. If you begin to see this marker appearing, it means your harness should be replaced. “We didn’t talk about it again. This strategy allows for momentary load transfer to one side, effectively transforming the system into a main and belay configuration. but they do also have routine patients as well when the physicians are unavailable or are scheduled out too far. Feb 22, 2012 · The Two Person Continuous Loop System, aka The Infinite Loop Method For a long time now, I’ve wanted to (and attempted to) climb The Diamond on Longs Peak in the winter. So the question comes up a lot about how to use the belay loop. If you keep the friction hitch close to the tie in points by tying it in directly, then it should stay out of the way. Do you do cutting, clamping, suturing? Or is it more monitoring vitals and handing instruments? PAs can be trained to manage more complex patients and do more invasive procedures (after a PA “residency”), but as a future attending and as a patient, I am very uncomfortable with that notion. This setup can work for everything from building a climbing anchor to making your own adjustable personal anchor system (PAS). How to make simple but effective personal tethers for attaching your harness to a belay or rappel anchor when climbing. It's much better to use more durable, thicker nylon slings than thin Spectra/Dyneema for extending your belay device. Takes We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. To ascend using a Prusik knot, two loops are used simultaneously Oct 30, 2018 · No tension like on the PAS to clip the descender/Reverso if a on a hanging belay station. This fundamental skill is necessary for many rescue situations. Extending a rappel offers a variety of advantages, mainly the ability to setup a backup that won’t fail if you were to let go of the rope on rappel. You could use a nylon sling for this purpose, but an adjustable lanyard is better for reasons already explained. lots of non-redundant items. Rappelling: If you’re forced to rappel, tie knots in the ends of the ropes and be sure to clip both strands before unclipping from the anchor. In the scenario pictured below you can see the rappel device is extended away from the belay loop via a personal anchor (PAS). . Once you feel the loop arrive at your mid-back step on the tails and you’re in Belay! STEP 4 - THE EXIT Remain stepping on the silks as you pass your shoulders and head through the loop like you’re taking off a shirt. For my rap PAS, I use some 6 mil cord loop, tied into a Purcell Prussik, girth hitched into my harness. Use a locking carabiner to clip a loop of the PAS to the same clip-in point as the draw. e. ” Hewett surmises that the belay loop continued fraying due to intensive wall work. Belay loop This loop of webbing is the focal point when belaying your climbing partner. Dual belay loops reduce clutter at belay and rappel stations. Connecting it via the swivel means it never gets tangled and allows me to get much tighter to my pieces (the Micro is attached via Allen key). Jan 22, 2025 · Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. Whether you're getting ready to belay a second up a multi-pitch route or cleaning gear on a top rope climb, the Metolius PAS 22 personal anchor system makes it easy to connect to an anchor. You can also add and remove slack one handed as you test Mar 21, 2024 · Before you get your top-rope belay certification, make sure you know these 10 essential things to ensure a safe and successful climbing experience. This adjustable lanyard girth-hitches to your tie-in points or belay loop and can be clipped out-of-the-way, to a gear loop for example, while climbing. Metolius PAS use involves hitching a longer terminal loop to the harness tie-in points, anchoring the opposing terminal loop to one anchor, then choosing an appropriate loop to clip into the remaining anchor point. Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. One simple, patented buckle adjusts the leg loop size and rise (distance between waist and leg loops) for a natural Dec 15, 2020 · About to take the belay test at the gym but not sure where to start? Relax. Why, if it's done with appropriate supervision? Jan 21, 2022 · Je ne vois pas, je n’entends pas, je ne sais pas. Also included are the different types of Metolius PAS you can use during the climb. Jul 5, 2023 · My first harness was a Chouinard Bod with no belay loop. Solitude Jerseys: same cut as mechanism, geared towards warm Feb 5, 2019 · PAS Code Lookup? Anyone know where I can look up these codes? Cursory Google search didn't help. Unclip your PAS from the anchor and clip the end of it to your belay loop; this creates redundancy in your rappel extension. 1 cm) away from your body. Aug 12, 2025 · Setting up an ATC for Belaying Clip a locking carabiner through both the groin loop and the waist loops of your harness (the same loops you tie into). Bibs: race cut, excellent materials and chamois. Climber and belayer system checks prior to climbing. For purposes of this example, our use of “anything” is the French word “nothing” - « rien » May 6, 2021 · Not a PA yet, but I work in a large Urology office with PAs and NPs. From the two options (descender on the belay loop and break on the leg loop OR descender on the extension and break on the belay loop) i'd say using the extension saves time, particularly when you have multiple rappels. Jul 24, 2015 · After learning about this, many people ask why one might use the inside of the knot as a belay loop. One of them just has an extension for an extended rappel. Situations when you may need to escape the belay include: - If your partner needs hauling through a crux while following - If you need to descend to your partner to give immediate first aid - If your partner falls and is How Risky or Not Risky is to Tunnel Brake Hand Up when you are taking Slack during Lead Belay?I have seen many arguing about this, so decided to do these exp Aug 7, 2025 · Find the pair of tie-in loops around the belay loop on your harness. Why, if it's done with appropriate supervision? For PAS just girth hitch a double and extend your rappel device on an alpine butterfly. Belay loop is fine, just remove it after your climb so it doesn't wear in the same spot. Sep 21, 2021 · Belay loop, rope, belay device…. It's the same thing on both of them. The most memorable precursor to retreat was The Prusik is tied in a loop with a double stopper knot on each end and has a shrink wrapped sheath over the knot. To begin lowering, use your guide hand to feed rope through the rappel device. I like to test my rappel twice before committing. Mar 1, 2023 · In this article, you will learn how to use Metolius PAS the right way. The training is more rigorous. This frees up the belay loop to be an attachment point for a 3rd hand (aka a prussik or autoblock) backup. Jan 12, 2023 · Many climbers choose to forego the PAS (Personal Anchor System) and instead connect themselves to anchors and rappel devices with different methods. Jan 19, 2023 · Chain style PAS connect to the harness with a long loop and have many interlinked loops to connect to belay stations, extend rappels, and build temporary anchors. Clip it to the belay loop or the leg loop or to a loop of my personal anchor system (PAS)? For many harnesses, as long as you have the Prusik downhill from the ATC, it doesn't matter. Sep 20, 2015 · Surgical PAs, what is your role in surgery? Just wondering what exactly you do during surgery. Aug 5, 2025 · Instead of attaching your ATC directly to your harness’ belay loop, extend your rappel device by girth hitching a sling or PAS (personal anchoring system) through the hardpoints on your harness, then set-up your ATC on the sling or PAS. Lock the carabiner securely. You can tie a knot with the tail so it doesn’t dangle and swing Simply girth hitch a 60cm sling through the hard points of your harness (the same points that your belay loop goes through) and clip your belay device to this sling instead of your belay loop. This knot can make it hard to work with the carabineer and it has an ambiguous clip-in point for the rappel device. I prefer this method as it keeps my ATC at eye level and prusik in a more manageable position (for me). This method enhances Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Each attempted has ended for one reason or another: pinned down by a blizzard at the base of the North Chimney, a partner with altitude sickness after a bivy on Broadway, ext. And PA students may be interested in /r/PAstudent for discussions about PA school. In alpine climbing, a small percentage of climbers still use harnesses without belay loops. Retentions, kidney stones, testicular pain, infections, post op appointments, etc. If you are using a Grigri instead of an ATC, the setup concept is similar Tell your belayer to take in the slack (the belay will back up your PAS). Jun 3, 2023 · I know “çe n’est pas” is preferred in extremely formal or official contexts like a presidential address or a school paper, and is inappropriate for everyday speech, but what about “semi-formal” contexts, like a job interview or an important work meeting with new clients? Jan 29, 2023 · Mechanism Jerseys: race cut, geared for riding in late spring to early summer, soft almost fleece like feel to the inside (brushed backing). Ensure safety and versatility with our step-by-step guide. I think I used the figure eight loop to clip into anchor systems, instead of clipping into both the waist and leg loops… maybe that was a reason to have it short, but all harnesses had belay loops now. PAS anchors are very strong, clipped into a second piece at the anchor it’s bombproof. The change is faster and gives better overview then the use of the rope to anker, but more weight so for longer routes a clove hitch is preferable Feb 1, 2022 · A loop will form around your torso. Jul 13, 2024 · Explore the evolution and impact of innovative belay loop designs in climbing harnesses. belay loop and strength rated gear and haul loops. Clip another PAS loop to an acceptable point below the other bolt. Proper belaying, taking and lowering technique without releasing the brake hand. A great harness for guiding with fully adjustable leg loops and a traditional double pass buckle, 6000 lb. They don't come into medicine with weird complexes from the nursing world about have to "save patients from doctors" or whatever. I don't extend raps, and love the Connect. Learn about materials, certifications, and factors affecting performance. Some harnesses feature an integrated wear safety marker in the belay loop. Feb 23, 2020 · Built as a chain of strong, durable, and reinforced loops which allow you to attach yourself in a number of ways to an anchor, a PAS is a great piece of kit. The PAS 22 is safer, more convenient, and more adjustable than using slings, quickdraws, or daisy chains at the anchor. The Prusik knot is also useful to back up a rappel or belay. IMPORTANT: A PAS is designed to hold you fast, and might fail if you rely on it to catch a fall of any distance. We like to put things in a box and this really creates problems in both of these worlds. Follow the belaying and harness closure diagrams strictly. [8] Make sure the rope fits securely between your body and your harness loop. Aug 1, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jul 10, 2023 · A PAS is a critical climbing tool because it allows you to safely transfer your body weight off the climbing rope and onto a climbing anchor or belay station. For clipping into anchors while climbing, cloving into the rope is faster and simpler. Now, sometimes you omit the “pas” when there’s a second negation, just like you would in English. Belay loop and tie-in points: where do I attach my lanyard, my belay device and my rope? The front part of a climbing harness usually has a belay loop and two tie-in points. Jun 23, 2023 · A worn belay loop, which busted when weighted, caused the demise of Yosemite icon Todd Skinner (while rappelling). The Prusik is tied in a loop with a double stopper knot on each end and has a shrink wrapped sheath over the knot. People girth hitch slings to their belay loop all the time, and technically it should work, but can cause wear on the same point on the loop (look up Todd Skinner's accident to see why this is potentially dangerous). zrxwd ebajae knssbuhk gnaxxk gour fzlra jjfxcwx zyvp jvfxo sbgmon